BateeqFall / Winter 2018Jakarta, Indonesia

Art Direction · Fashion Collection

Bateeq - Kelir

A fashion collection where an Indonesian cultural reference was translated into garment design, image direction and a complete seasonal visual world.

Year
2017
Role
Head of Design - Acting Art Director
Scope
Concept & Naming, Campaign Visual Direction, Fashion Design Direction, Fashion Design, Textile Design Direction, Sound Direction

Project Note

Duration7 months

I led Bateeq’s design team and external freelancers in Kelir’s day-to-day creative development. My responsibilities included developing and refining the concept, and directing its translation into the collection and campaign. I supervised the development process, briefing the team, led the campaign shoot and reviewed the work before presenting proposals to the Creative Director, Michelle Tjokrosaputro for final approval.

Working under Michelle’s overarching creative direction, I was entrusted with much of the seasonal creative groundwork, from initial concept development to the final execution. This involved coordinating a multidisciplinary team working in fashion and textiles, alongside specialists in jewellery, styling and image production.

Bateeq Kelir Fall Winter 2018 catalogue cover
Kelir Fall / Winter 2018 catalogue cover.

Project Overview

Making one theme idea work at every level of the collection.

Context

Bateeq is an Indonesian fashion brand that reinterprets batik heritage for contemporary urban dressing. Its collections are designed for different moments of daily life, while keeping a visible connection to Indonesian textile culture. Multi-occasion dressing is a recurring product principle, often explored with reversible, modular or transformable garments.

What need to be solved

Kelir needed to stay recognisably Bateeq while pushing the brand further into a more fashion-forward territory. The concept had to be integral to the collection, shaping the garments, styling, campaign imagery, runway presentation and seasonal communication.

It also needed to hold together over a six-month retail cycle, from commercial product development to public presentation.

Garment fitting, collection development.

Scale

6Months of distribution
5Drops
60Runway looks
±100Commercial SKUs
SEARegional distribution

Concept

Kelir screen photographed during the Bateeq Kelir location scout
Kelir screen, location scout.

Kelir is the screen used in Javanese wayang kulit performance (a form of puppetry art), where light and shadow are projected to convey stories. It became a bridge between ideas of contrast, layered meaning and the visual characteristic of wayang kulit itself.

Concept Development

Building the collection visual language from the illuminated screen.

Kelir developed during a period when political discussion in Indonesia was becoming more visible ahead of the next election. That context brought us back to the role of the dalang, the wayang puppeteer, who has historically acted as both storyteller and social commentator.

From there, the illuminated screen became the main visual reference. Its play between light and shadow informed the garments through form, volume and concealment, while the imagery explored contrast-dramatic lighting and cinematic framing. Together, they created a visual language where not everything had to be revealed at once.

Kelir
Wayang kulit
Shape
Sharp angular body parts
Sharp angular cuts
Power Shoulder
Costume
Asymmetrical Garment
Voluminous Garment
Drapery
3D Surface
Accessories
Earcuff
Arm bangle
Headpiece
Circular Bun
Rockabilly Bun
Communal show
Vernacular
Music
Gamelan orchestra
Maximalism
Seen from different angles
Hidden
Hidden meaning
Layered
Reversible Garment
Garment and styling direction
Chiaroscuro
High colour contrast
Contrast
Intense and dense colour
Soft-focus image
Visible texture
Projection
Stained Glass
Multicolored Fragments
Shadow
Dark
Light
Relaxed pose
Campaign image direction
Wayang puppet shape and surface reference
Shape for pattern component
Wayang angular shape reference
Female rockabilly bun hairstyle reference
Wayang puppet hair up do reference
Male 50s rock hair reference
Robert Mapplethorpe vase and shadow reference
Historical voluminous garment reference
Layered and asymmetrical reference
Multicolored fragment reference
Folded textile and drapery reference
Dense Colour Reference
Dramatic chiaroscuro lighting reference
Soft focus image reference
Dense colour and grainy campaign reference
Dense color campaign reference

Process

From direction to development.

The collection process includes multiple steps, such as textile experimentation, garment development, fittings, readjusting and styling before the visual language was consolidated into its final form.

Drag to uncover

Bateeq Kelir styling development process
On set direction process
Bateeq Kelir styling development process
Make up & Hair do on shoot location
Bateeq Kelir textile development
Fabric cut out development
Bateeq Kelir early development
Early pattern conception sketch
Bateeq Kelir early development
Early menswear conception sketch
Bateeq Kelir embroidery development
Embroidery development
Bateeq Kelir fashion design development
Embroidered patch sample
Bateeq Kelir textile development
Fabric print development
Bateeq Kelir textile development
Jacquard Textile development
Bateeq Kelir fashion design development
Womenswear design by Dea A.
Bateeq Kelir jewelry development
Jewelry direction
Bateeq Kelir styling development
Restyling and fitting
Bateeq Kelir garment fitting
Early pattern direction
Bateeq Kelir styling development
Styling experiment process
Bateeq Kelir garment development
Garment detail development
Bateeq Kelir styling development
Event preparation
Bateeq Kelir campaign development
Campaign photoshoot
Bateeq Kelir Fall Winter 2018 campaign

Final Work

Kelir Fall / Winter 2018 campaign.

Runway

The collection was presented on runways and seasonal events, translating the same visual language into silhouette, styling and movement.

Bateeq Kelir runway look
Bateeq Kelir runway look
Bateeq Kelir runway look
Bateeq Kelir runway look
Bateeq Kelir runway look
Bateeq Kelir runway look

Seasonal rollout

Kelir seasonal communication was rolled out across digital and physical touchpoints, from seasonal social media communication to printed collateral distributed around the show.

Printed Bateeq Kelir leaflet
Printed leaflet distributed as part of the seasonal rollout.
Bateeq Kelir social media rollout
Phone mockup
Seasonal social rollout featuring campaign, invitation and launch posts.
Kelir campaign image
Kelir campaign image
Kelir campaign image

Bateeq's Fall / Winter 2018 - Kelir catalogue.

Kelir campaign film with original soundtrack composed from the collection brief.

Bateeq Kelir Fall Winter 2018 campaign

Credits

Creative DirectionMichelle T.

Concept Development & Design DirectionDea A.

Campaign DirectionDea A.

Fashion Design - WomenswearPrashasta A., Marsha C., & Dea A.

Fashion Design - MenswearGaluh N.

Textile DesignYunita D.P. & Sapto L.

Embroidery DesignSapto L.

Project ManagementAnna M.

Marketing DirectionBernadetta A.P.

PhotographyVicky T. & Hilarius J.P.

Photography AssistantWelly D.

StylingLilian N.

Make Up & Hair DoEva

FilmHeru A.

Female ModelYuke A. - Jim Models

Male ModelStevan M. - Twentyonemm

Jewelry design & developmentAmanda S. - Ambstamb

Soft accessories designGaluh N. & Yunita D.P.

Female Shoes developmentFauzan Shoes

Male Shoes design & developmentKozuki

CollateralsMokki Design

MusicDouble Deer